Four Days in Philadelphia, PA

A visit to Philadelphia is wonderful year-round, with much to see and do including an exploration of American history. We took a trip in early March to participate in the annual Love Run (a 5K and half-marathon that year), which was also my first visit to Philly. Then we went back to see it at Christmas. In March the trip contained a lot of firsts for me – first time running a 5K for one thing! First time going up the Rocky steps, seeing the Liberty Bell, sauntering through Rittenhouse Square or finally eating a real Philly cheesesteak. At Christmas the city was all aglow with charm….even in subzero temperatures! Following are highlights from both trips with more than enough to do to fill a 4 day itinerary in Philly.

Reading Terminal Market

The first thing we did after getting off the train that took us from New York to Philly, was to head over to nearby Reading Terminal Market for lunch, on the corner of 12^th and Arch street (right by the convention center).  This is one of America’s largest and oldest markets, located in the current landmark building since 1893.  People come here to buy produce, meats, cheese, baked goods and more, but it is also a great place to grab a quick meal or drink.

We chose to try out Tommy Dinics for some traditional sandwiches.  I had the roast pork and broccoli rabe.  It had just the right amount of au jus soaking into the roll filled with tender roast pork and steamed broccoli rabe, all held together with melted provolone cheese.  I loved it and was well fed for the day. For a list of merchants and food purveyors in the market and more, visit Reading Terminal Market.

Historic Philadelphia

This is one of the best cities for immersing yourself into American history.  In a block of space called the “Old City”, starting at Walnut and 6^th streets and going over roughly to Race street and the piers, you will be able to see all of the following:  Independence Hall (where they signed the Declaration of Independence), the Liberty Bell, The National Constitution Center, the Philadelphia Mint, The Betsy Ross House and Elfreth’s Alley, and more.

We started at the Independence Visitor Center, where you can get reserved tickets to see different sites, brochures, maps, snacks and more.  Independence Hall gives tours every 15 minutes, but depending on the crowds you may have to wait in line.  For more information see here.

Independence Hall:  This building used to be the Pennsylvania State House, and it was here that congressmen such as Benjamin Franklin, Samuel Adams, John Hancock and Thomas Jefferson assembled to debate and sign the Declaration of Independence.  The draft that Thomas Jefferson wrote was adopted on July 4, 1776 (Independence Day) and the document was signed on August 2, 1776.  Eleven years later The United States Constitution was signed here (September 17, 1787).  The tour will take you through various rooms, including the Court House which used to be the nation’s Supreme Court and the Assembly Hall where both of the above mentioned documents were debated and signed.  The rooms are set up in the furnishings and signing implements of the time, so you can stand there and image what it might have been like to be there.

Franklin Court:  Benjamin Franklin is a major figure in Philadelphia’s history, and he lived in the Old City.  His house no longer exits, but a “ghost” house structure was built on the original location which can be visited, along with a museum about his life, at nearby Franklin Court (between 3^rd and 4^th streets).  The only original structure still standing is the arched carriage entryway to his property which once included rental units and a printing shop.  As I stood there I imagined Benjamin Franklin, one of the richest men in town at the time, getting in his horse-drawn carriage and riding out through that archway, perhaps on his way to Independence Hall.

National Constitution Center:  If you continue up a few blocks you will come to the National Constitution Center, which was a nice place to sit down and rest for a bit while we watched an engaging multi-media presentation on how the constitution came to be.  Tickets can be purchased at the door. For more information visit constitutioncenter.org 

Philadephia Mint:  An interesting stop close by is the Philadelphia Mint, the nation’s first mint.  They still produce coins and provide other services.  You can take a tour, learn about its history and watch coins being made.  Tickets can be purchased at the door. For more information see here. 

The Liberty Bell:  You can’t miss a stop to see the Liberty Bell, a few blocks south between 5^th and 6^th streets.  Entrance is free, and you will learn all about how this bell became a symbol of liberty for all.  You can see exhibitions, a film, and of course the cracked Liberty Bell itself.  The reason why it is cracked has not been recorded, but most likely after 90 years of use, small cracks and repeated repairs may have caused it.  This is the bell that originally hung in the Philadelphia State House (now Independence Hall) and was used to ring in the congressmen for assembly.

After seeing all these signts, we were hungry….time to try the famous Philly cheese steak. We found a great place in the Old City, Sonny’s Cheesesteaks. It was packed and there was a line out the door, but it was so worth it!  Once seated, one of us went up to order our loaded cheesesteaks at the counter. 

The we dug in!

We finished our tour of the Old City by going to Elfreth’s Alley and seeing the Betsy Ross House on the way.  The Betsy Ross House is where the seamstress and flag maker Betsy Ross (1752-1836) lived and is said to have sewn the first American flag.  Information on events and a virtual tour of the house can be found here.  As you cross over on Arch street and then up on 2^nd street you will reach Elfreth’s Alley.  This is an ally that was built in 1703 to provide a convenient route to the docks.  Over the past three hundred years it has been preserved as a national historic landmark and is an exceptional example of early American structures.  This is the place to snap a photo and feel what it might have been like to live in colonial America.

City Hall

We spent one afternoon touring City Hall, a towering structure in Center City which can be seen for miles around.

Tickets for the tour can be purchased at the door and includes a ride up in a tiny elevator to the top of the tower, where the views of surround Philly are amazing. You can see all the way down to the Rocky Steps.

Our tour guide was happy to share her knowledge of how the city of Philadelphia came to be and to answer any of our questions.  William Penn designed the city of Philadelphia in 1682 and named many of its streets and squares.  We had a pleasant discussion as to who is considered most important to Philadelphia – William Penn or Benjamin Franklin? Our tour guide said a hint might be gleaned from the 37 foot high, 26 ton statue of Willliam Penn that sits on top of tower. We were able to see the underside of the statue as we circled the top of the tower.

The Love Run

Experiencing the Love Run was exhilarating. It was cold, yes, on an early March morning around 5:30am. Heading out dressed in three layers I was super excited to run my first 5K. The city streets were quiet save the thousands of fellow runners making their way down to the race start.

The Benjamin Franklin Parkway was lined with international flags, and the energy of all the runners there was intense as we all bathed in the orange glow of the sunrise at dawn. The course wound its way through some of the main downtown attractions, including City Hall which we had just visited the day before. The race finished at the Rocky steps.

Rocky Steps and Statue

The steps going up the Philadelphia Museum of Art are famously called “The Rocky Steps”, because of that scene in the movie “Rocky” where Sylvester Stallone ran up those very same steps (watching a rerun of the movie Rocky before your trip might be a fun thing to do). We joined the short line and took our turn taking pictures in front of the Rocky Statue which the city has erected right next to the steps.

To celebrate after the race, we had brunch at a great French restaurant in Rittenhouse Square, Parc for the best omelets. Then we had a wonderful dinner at The Dandelion.  It’s an English gastro pub with a cozy dark interior with a fireplace and seating upstairs. I highly recommend the Tandoori Chicken, and coconut basmati rice with almonds, pistachios and raisins. 

Rittenhouse Square

Rittenhouse House Square, located walking distance from downtown, was planned by William Penn in the late 17^th century. Today it is an exclusive neighborhood surrounded by high rise apartment buildings, high-end shopping and some of the best restaurants in Philly. The park in Rittenhouse Square is pleasant to stroll through any time of the year, even in the middle of winter when we went back to visit during Christmas time.

The Philadephia Museum of Art

It was easy to spend almost the whole day here, and it’s a good activity for when the weather turns rainy or cold. When we were there they happen to have a Matisse exhibition going on. The line to the exhibition was miles long, but we found out that one can use their museum entrance ticket for two consecutive days, so we were thrilled to be able to take a museum tour one day, and then go back in the morning to see the Matisse exhibit, when the lines were much shorter.

The tour went over parts of the museum that are perhaps less known, but all the more fascinating with the wealth of knowledge that the tour guide shared with us.

There was one room made of the interior pillars of an Indian temple.

There was medieval art.

…..as well as paintings from such well-known artists such as VanGogh…

….and of course, Matisse.

and modern art as well, by artists like Picasso and Kandinsky.

Philadelphia, known as the city of brotherly love, is a city filled with love of all kinds. There is the love of art, of good food, of achievement and overcoming struggle, all perhaps summed up in the love of freedom. My visits to this city instilled in me a renewed sense of what all that means, and I know I will keep coming back for more.

Dates of trips: March 2018 and December 2022

Places to stay

We enjoyed staying at Club Quarters hotel and Sofitel hotel, both walking distance to the Old City, Center City and Rittenhouse Square. For other options and deals, see www.visitphilly.com. Philadelphia also has very charming bed and breakfasts, check out some options at Bed and Breakfasts in Philadelphia.